Tuesday, September 16, 2008

September 9

Raimiti is even lovelier in the morning than it is at night. It helps that you aren’t cold, tired and hungry. Breakfast was delightful, fresh, warm buttery croissants and fruit.

Our bed clothes were damp, so I hung them up from the ceiling, hoping they would air dry. They did, but then they got damp again when it started raining. It rains like Vancouver here, except that the weather changes every half hour, so even though it is raining you can have a nice day. But still, everything is damp, from our clothes to our sheets. Once something is wet, it stays so. Our bathing suits haven’t dried yet.

In our little fare we have branches for hanging clothes on. I hung a pair of shorts on it, hoping that it might get a little less damp. No such luck. But they did gain some white bits—Gecko poo. The Geckos run everywhere, inside the cabin and out. Nowhere is safe from them. Though only my shorts were blessed enough to have the Geckos poo on them.

Upon seeing the kayaks, Momma seized on an idea to paddle up the “coast”. You have to understand, you can always see the other side of the “coast”. The highest land gets is one meter above the lagoon, when the ocean rises more than a meter in the next century, all the Tuamotus will be under water. I was in the single and Momma and Georgie were in a double. The single was so short that with each strong paddle stroke the bow bobbed back and forth like an uncertain fish. The dogs, deciding they didn’t want to be left out, shadowed our progress on the shore. When we stopped, they stopped, when we swam, they swam.

We eventually reached Momma’s destination, a beautiful little cove that reached back almost to the open ocean. Thanks to Daddy’s suggestion, we had brought our masks, but not our fins. We went swimming anyway, but our strokes lacked the power and effortlessness we usually had. There were a few solitary coral heads abundant with fish, but in between those, there was sand, sand, and more sand. You couldn’t even see the other coral heads when you were in between two. All that was apparently there was turquoise fading off in to royal blue. Then there would be an indistinct dark shape rising out of the sand—the coral lump.

We made it back just in time for lunch at noon. There were two types of salad, and my favorite, onion quiche. Delicious. The afternoon was spent in an anticipation of diner and a late snorkel. Dinner was good, but not as good as the first nights appetizer.